Caring for Senior Dogs: What You Need to Know

As your dog ages, many of his basic needs, from diet to exercise, will begin to change. This guide will help you understand what it takes to keep your senior dog happy and healthy.

Dogs are very good at hiding their health problems and as an owner, it’s your responsibility to keep an eye on your senior dog to ensure that you are adjusting his routine to match changes in his body and immune system that make him less able to cope with physical and environmental stresses. Routine exams, preventive medicine and adjustments to your dog’s lifestyle can help your pooch stay healthy even as the years creep up.

Know When Your Dog Qualifies

Different sized dogs age at varying rates, with larger dogs reaching senior status much sooner than smaller dogs.

While each dog reaches “seniorhood” at a different age, most canines become seniors between 7 and 10 years old. It’s important to know your dog’s age, so you know when he becomes a senior. Ask your vet about when your dog’s needs may begin to change.

Watch Out for Senior Health Issues

You and your vet will begin looking for specific issues that become more prevalent as a dog ages. Here’s a list of some of these issues:

1. Arthritis
2. Cancer (especially testicular or breast cancer)
3. Prostate disease
4. Cognitive disorders
5. Intestinal problems
6. Deafness
7. Dental disease
8. Diabetes mellitus
9. Kidney disease
10. Liver disease
11. Vision problems

Schedule Regular Wellness Exams

Just as with people, regular health checkups become increasingly important as dogs grow older. Most experts agree that senior dogs should be seen at least once every six months. The purpose of these wellness exams is to do three things:

1. Promote your dog’s health and longevity.
2. Recognize and control your pup’s health risks.
3. Detect any illnesses at their earliest stages, which may improve treatment options.

During a typical wellness exam, your vet will ask a variety of health-related questions in order to build a snapshot of your dog’s medical history. These questions often focus on your pup’s regular behaviors and whether you’ve observed any recent changes that may indicate a developing health concern.

During this checkup, vets typically check a dog’s body for tumors, signs of pain, or arthritis. In addition, your vet will assess your dog’s overall appearance and body condition, scanning his eyes, ears, nose, and mouth for irregularities as well as listening to his lungs and heart. A routine checkup may also include the following battery of diagnostic tests.

1. Blood pressure
2. CBC (complete blood count)
3. CHEM screen (liver and kidney function)
4. Urinalysis
5. Thyroid function testing
6. Heartworm blood test
7. Fecal test

Most veterinarians agree that these baseline laboratory tests should be performed at least once a year in adult dogs ages two to seven years old, and more frequently in senior dogs. These baseline screenings allow your vet to monitor any developing trends in your dog’s health status as it changes from year to year. Additional testing may be necessary if your dog has any ongoing health issues, or if these routine screenings uncover any unusual results.

Consistently Monitor Your Senior Dog’s Health

Many of the illnesses that commonly plague senior dogs are obvious even to the untrained eye. So it’s important that you monitor changes in your dog’s health between regular vet visits. If any of the following signs present themselves, contact your vet immediately.

• Incontinence (sometimes evidenced by accidents in the house)
• Lumps
• Constipation or diarrhea
• Shortness of breath or other difficulty breathing
• Coughing
• Weakness
• Unusual discharges
• Changes in appetite, water intake, or urination
• Stiffness or limping
• Increased vocalization
• Uncharacteristic aggression or other behavioral changes

Unexplained fluctuations in your dog’s weight may be an early sign of an underlying disease. Weight management itself can be a huge factor in your dog’s health. Obesity in dogs increases the risk of developing arthritis and a number of other diseases.

Take Action

Along with being more watchful over your senior dog’s health, it’s crucial that you keep up with routine preventive care such as parasite prevention, dental care, vaccinations, and nutritional management. As your dog’s immune system weakens, the importance of routine basic care only increases.

Create a comfortable environment for your aging best friend with easy access to food, supportive bedding, and fresh water whenever he needs it. In addition, plenty of regular attention and affection is good for morale, both yours and your senior dog’s.

Adjust Your Dog’s Nutrition

Foods designed for senior dogs often have less fat, but not lower protein levels. Ask your vet to recommend a senior dog food formula for your dog. Size typically determines the age at which you should shift your dog to a senior-friendly diet:

• Small breeds (dogs weighing less than 20 pounds) – 7 years old
• Medium breeds (21 to 50 pounds) – 7 years old
• Large breeds (51 to 90 pounds) – 6 years old
• Giant breeds (91 pounds or heavier) – 5 years old

Smaller, more frequent meals are often easier on a senior dog’s digestive system. You may also want to adjust your bathroom routine, giving your dog more frequent opportunities to go outside.

Adjust Your Home’s Comfort Level

Older dogs can’t regulate their body temperature as well as they could in their younger days. It is important to keep your dog warm, dry, and indoors when he’s not out getting his exercise. Senior canines are also more sensitive to heat and humidity, so protect them from conditions in which they may overheat.

If your dog has arthritis, he may prefer a ramp instead of walking up the stairs, extra blankets on his bed, or even a new bed designed to promote orthopedic health. If your dog suffers from vision loss, it’s a good idea to ease his anxiety by keeping floors clear of clutter. These little things add up.

Don’t Forget Dental Care

Plaque and tartar buildup can lead to a number of nasty health problems for your dog. Regular brushing with a specially formulated canine toothpaste can reduce the likelihood of any problems. Discuss with your vet whether your dog should come into the office for a thorough cleaning.

Why Has My Cat Stopped Grooming Herself?

Cats are notorious for being neat freaks. They are constantly cleaning and grooming themselves; in fact, on average, cats clean themselves during half of their waking hours. So if your cat has suddenly stopped grooming herself, this can be a sign that something is very wrong and she needs to go to the vet right away.

Signs That Your Cat Isn’t Grooming Properly

There are quite a few telltale signs that your cat isn’t grooming properly, according to Village Gate Animal Hospital. First, you may notice matted fur or a greasier, harsher-feeling coat. She may have food on her cheeks or her feet may have litter stuck to them because she’s stopped cleaning her paws. She may even smell a little if she’s not keeping her bum properly cleaned.

Pain Can Cause Her to Stop Grooming

One of the leading reasons why cats stop grooming is pain. Pain can limit a cat’s movements or flexibility, making it harder to groom herself. A lot of things can cause this type of pain, ranging from arthritis in older cats to a sprained joint or a broken bone. Cats can start showing signs of their age between 7 and 10 years, and most cats have elderly cat issues by the time they’re 12.

Dental Problems Can Be an Issue

If your cat is having dental problems, this can also have a serious impact on her grooming ability. If her jaw hurts, she’s not going to want to lick her fur to clean herself. She may also be drooling or eating less if she has dental problems. You can get her teeth checked out at your vet.

Chubby Cats Might Have a Tougher Time Grooming

An overweight cat might simply be too chubby to be able to reach all the parts of her body that need grooming. If this is the problem, you’ll need to help your cat lose weight and brush her in the meantime. Some pet stores sell specialty wipes that are made to use on your cat to help keep her clean if she’s having trouble grooming.

The Special Case of a Matted Bum

This isn’t exactly the most pleasant topic to talk about, but sometimes a cat may appear to stop grooming the fur around her bum. This means it can get matted and really gross. Sometimes, a cat who’s a little chubbier just can’t reach her bum to clean it. Cats with long fur are also in danger of getting tangles and mats more easily, so she just may not be able to undo the matting herself. If the fur around your cat’s bum is matted, don’t take scissors to her because you might cut her skin if she reacts! Instead, see if you can get the fur shaved safely the next time you’re at the vet. But don’t delay taking care of the problem; a matted bum can cause sanitary issues and health issues if not shaved.

Whatever you may think is causing your cat to stop grooming herself, you should definitely get her checked out by a veterinarian right away. Lack of grooming can be a sign of a bigger health issue, so don’t delay taking your kitty to the vet. Once you find out the source of the problem, your vet may recommend that you start brushing your cat regularly to help her get back in the habit of grooming. Many cats love being brushed, so this can help build a stronger bond between you and your cat.

Is Your Cat Insecure? Surprising Signs Of Insecurity In Cats

Cats thrive on feeling safe and secure. When their security disappears, a lot of behavior problems can suddenly appear, seemingly out of nowhere. You might be surprised to learn that an insecure cat won’t necessarily just always hide in a corner. In fact, some insecure cats become more aggressive to make up for their feelings of inferiority! The following are some major signs that your cat may be dealing with security issues.

Biting, Clawing, and Hissing

An aggressive cat may not be angry or mean, she may just be insecure. Some cats overcompensate for insecurity by trying to make themselves the meanest person in the room. Think of it like a bully who only hurts other people so he won’t be hurt first. A cat who’s always hissing and scratching at you might actually just be really scared.

Peeing All Over the House

Inappropriate elimination is a classic sign of insecurity in cats. Cats mark their territories with urine as a sign of ownership to other pets in the house and even strays wandering around outside. If kitty feels insecure about her home, she may start marking everything with urine. Before deciding the problem is insecurity, take her to the vet and get her checked for a urinary tract infection. Sick cats can also develop a new habit of peeing in inappropriate places.

Hiding Under Your Furniture

This one’s a little more obvious. If kitty is always hiding under your furniture, such as cowering in a small opening under your couch, you’ve got an insecure cat. Some cats will hide in couches, chairs, or even under blankets when a new person comes to visit. However, hiding isn’t always a sign of insecurity. Some cats may burrow under your favorite comforter when they just want to sleep undisturbed. Take note if kitty’s only hiding for a peaceful sleep or if she seems to be hiding all the time.

Meowing Excessively

Excess vocalization can be a sign of insecurity or boredom. Cats who are insecure may feel the constant need to get your attention by meowing. They may experience separation anxiety if you lock them out of your bedroom while you’re sleeping, which can lead to their meowing non-stop at your door. Watch your cat’s other actions and body posture to determine if she’s insecure or just bored.

Tail Down

If your cat is walking with her tail down, this can be a sure sign of insecurity. A secure, confident cat will walk with her tail held proudly in the air, sticking straight up or slightly curved at the end. An insecure cat keeps her tail low or tucked between her legs. She may also slink when she walks, keeping her body close to the ground as if she’s trying to hide.

Most Popular Names for White Cats

There are many interesting tales about white cats in our world’s folklore: The Celtic goddess Ceridwen used white cats to carry out her orders on earth; dreaming of a white cat is good luck; white cats are a symbol of light and goodness.

Choosing the perfect white cat name is essential for the finicky feline owner!

Albino
Angel
Angelica
Avalanche
Blanca
Blizzard
Casper
Cloud
Cottonball
Diamond
Faith
Frosty
Ghost
Glitter
Ice
Icicle
Ivory
Jack Frost
Marshmallow
Merlin
Milky
Opal
Pearl
Powder
Q-tip
Snow
Snow White
Snowball
Snowbird
Snowdrift
Snowtiger
Snowy
Spirit
Sugar
Vanilla
Whitegold
Whitey
Winter

Pet Dental Care 101

Painful toothaches and gingivitis have mercy on no one, man or beast. Here’s a guide to help you keep your pet’s teeth and gums happy and healthy.

Many pet owners tend to overlook their pet’s bad breath, dismissing it as normal. In fact, bad breath, along with sore or bleeding gums are warning signs that your dog or cat may be developing painful periodontal disease. When it comes to the importance of your pet’s dental hygiene, it goes way beyond a pretty smile. Good dental health not only helps your pet eat comfortably but contributes to overall pet health, as well. While dental care for pets often gets short shrift, establishing good dental habits early in your pet’s life will pay major dividends throughout his life.

Be Vigilant

Just like humans, pets need routine brushing to win the lifelong battle with plaque. As your pet eats, plaque builds up, eventually hardening into the calcified material we know as tartar. If plaque is you pet’s arch nemesis, tartar is her mortal enemy. Tartar not only irritates gums, but it also becomes a playground for bacteria.

If left untreated, the gums will become inflamed, pulling back from the teeth and creating pockets that, you guessed it, harbor even more harmful bacteria. As gum disease progresses, the gums may bleed, the roots of your pet’s teeth may be exposed, teeth may loosen, and your pet may actually feel pain as she eats her dinner. Over time this bacteria can find its way into your pet’s bloodstream, leading to liver and kidney problems. It’s insidious, painful, and, yes, disgusting. But it is also very preventable.

Watch for Warning Signs

It’s not hard to spot your pet’s tooth and gum problems as they develop. The warning signs are clear. The trick is learning not to dismiss them. Here are a few of the most common warning signs.

• Bad breath
• Sensitivity around the mouth
• Loss of appetite
• Yellow or brown deposits on the teeth
• Bleeding, inflamed, and withdrawn gums
• Loose or missing teeth
• Pawing at the mouth or face
• Difficulty chewing

Learn to Brush

It’s never too early to start familiarizing your pet with the old toothbrush routine. With praise and a few tasty rewards, a quick little dental scrubbing can even become a bonding experience.

1. Start by rubbing your pet’s teeth with a soft gauze pad. Wrap the gauze around your finger to secure it as you rub. This will familiarize your pet with the brushing process.

2. Work your way up to a pet toothbrush. Specially designed cat and dog toothbrushes, as well as toothpastes, are available through most pet retailers. Don’t use toothpaste designed for humans.

3. Focus on the gum line. The line where the teeth meet the gums is the most critical area to scrub.

4. Spend 30 seconds brushing each side of the mouth a few times per week.

Enlist Your Vet’s Help

Your veterinarian is there not only to help with serious dental emergencies but also to assist with routine care. Regular checkups are essential to keeping a close eye on your dog or cat’s dental health. Your vet may also recommend a prophylaxis — a cleaning procedure that requires medication and/or anesthesia. In the event that your pet is suffering from a more serious condition, your vet can recommend the proper course of treatment — a tooth extraction, for instance.

If your pet simply won’t tolerate the toothbrush, ask your vet about alternative ways to slow plaque buildup in between checkups.

Consider Switching to Dry Food

While not as effective as brushing, dry food can help keep your pet’s teeth and gums healthy. In addition, there are a number of foods, treats, and toys available that are specifically designed to promote dental health. Check for the Seal of Acceptance from the Veterinary Oral Health Council to make sure it meets high standards for effective plaque and tartar control.

How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears

Whether they are pointy or floppy, long or short, dogs’ ears are a sensitive part of their bodies. Unattended ear infections can lead to serious problems and possible hearing loss. If the ears smell bad, your dog is scratching at them or shaking his head, or if he acts in pain when you touch them, it could be a sign of an infection and the time to call your veterinarian. Also, just like the warnings for human ears, dogs’ ears are no place for cotton swabs.

Get Ready

Dogs have no interest in having their ears cleaned. You’ll want to have all your supplies handy so you can devote your full attention to the dog and not get distracted looking for the wayward cotton balls. Your vet’s office can provide you with a safe ear cleaner, and you’ll want several cotton balls close at hand. Clean hands (so as not to cause additional problems) or gloves and treats are a must. If your dog is squirmy, a second person is a huge help. One person or two, you’ll want to close the dog into a small room like the bathroom.

Go In

Starting from the outside and working in, you’ll clean out all areas of the ear that you can reach. Wet the cotton ball with the cleaner and wipe down the inside surface of the dog’s ear flap (the part that you can easily see). Once that is clean, get a new cotton ball wet with the cleanser and clean the inside part stopping when you feel resistance. Pushing further than the ear wants you to go can cause damage. If the cotton balls are very dirty, it may be time to schedule a check up with your veterinarian. When you’re finished cleaning, it is time for lots of treats and praise!

HSUS

Even though we give them lots of good scratches, when it comes to grooming, the ears of dogs are frequently the most neglected parts of their bodies. But their ears are also one of the most important areas to attend to. Ear infections can be serious, and can begin easily if an animal’s ears are not kept clean. After all, how will Biffer know when to start salivating if his ears don’t pick up the sound of kibble hitting his bowl? Make sure your furry guests keep their ears perked up by following these simple steps.

1. To Clean or Not to Clean, That is the Question
Be careful! If the dog’s ears have an offensive odor, or if he has been scratching them repeatedly, you should not remove the icky stuff that might have accumulated; whatever’s there can help your vet determine the cause of the “ear-itation” and figure out how to treat it. So if he’s scratching, or if you’re tempted to plug your nose while cleaning his ears, you should turn the task over to your veterinarian or veterinary technician first; she can take swabs of the substance for examination.

2. Ear We Are
Before you start your scrubbing, make sure you’ve set the table. You should have your supplies set out and ready to go. Put out your cotton balls and cleanera commercially prepared ear cleaner with a low alcohol content is best. Wash your hands thoroughly so you don’t introduce any infectious particles to the dog’s ears. You may want to work with a buddy; your friend can provide distracting pats while the ear cleaning takes place.

3. Wipe Out!
Once you’ve determined that your dog’s ears are merely dirty and not full of mites or infection, you can remove the dirt. Using a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil, gently wipe out the inner surface of the animal’s earflap. Discard the first cotton ball and moisten another; with this one, clean out the part of the ear canal that you can see. Stop when you feel resistance-don’t try to stick the cotton ball any farther into the ear than it should go. Repeat this process on the other ear. Make sure you remove any foreign matter, whether it’s dirt, bugs, or just waxy buildup.

4. Ears to You!
Give your furry friend a pat, give your helper a high-five, and send your little buddy on his way. Now he’ll be well-prepared to hear those wonderful words:

“Look, honey, he’s beautiful! He’d be a wonderful new member of our family.”

“Oh, you’re right. And his ears are so clean!”

Dog Adoption Checklist

Congratulations on deciding to adopt a dog! You are embarking on a wonderful and rewarding relationship. Because adopting a new dog comes with a lot of change for both dog and dog parent, we’ve compiled a checklist to help make the transition as smooth as possible.

Questions for All Adopters:

• Do you have any other dogs and how will they react to a new pet?
• Is your current residence suited to the dog you’re considering?
• How will your social life or work obligations affect your ability to care for a dog?
• Do you have a plan for your new dog during vacations and/or work travel?
• How do the people you live with feel about having a dog in the house?
• Are you (or your spouse, partner or roommate) intolerant of hair, dirt and other realities of sharing your home with a dog, such as allergies?
• Do you or any of your household/family members have health issues that may be affected by a dog?
• What breed of dog is the best fit with your current lifestyle?
• Is there tension in the home? Dogs quickly pick up on stress in the home, and it can exacerbate their health and behavior problems.
• Is there an adult in the family who has agreed to be ultimately responsible for the dog’s care?

 

Other Considerations:

• What do you expect your dog to contribute to your life? For example, do you want a running and hiking buddy, or is your idea of exercise watching it on TV?
• If you are thinking of adopting a young dog, do you have the time and patience to work with the dog through its adolescence, taking house-breaking, chewing and energy-level into account?
• Have you considered your lifestyle carefully and determined whether a younger or older dog would be a better match for you?
• Can you train and handle a dog with behavior issues or are you looking for an easy-going friend?
• Do you need a dog who will be reliable with children or one you can take with you when you travel?
• Do you want a dog who follows you all around the house or would you prefer a less clingy, more independent character?

 

Size Considerations:

• What size dog can your home accommodate?
• Will you have enough room if your dog grows to be bigger than expected?
• What size dog would suit the other people who live in or visit your home regularly?
• Do you have another dog to consider when choosing the size of your next dog?
• How big of a dog can you travel comfortably with?

 

Dog Costs:

• More likely than not, the adopting agency will charge a fee to help defray the cost of taking in homeless or lost animals. The adoption fee you pay will be a tiny fraction of the money you will spend over the life of your dog.
• You may need to pay for your adopted dog to be spayed or neutered before bringing him or her home.
• Some expenses are mandatory for all dogs, including:
• • Food
  • Routine veterinary care
  • Licensing according to local regulations
  • Collars, leashes and identification tags
  • Basic grooming equipment and supplies
• Other expenditures may not be required but are highly recommended:
• • Permanent identification, such as a microchip or tattoo
  • Training classes
  • Additional grooming supplies or professional grooming (depending on your new dog’s needs)
  • A spare collar or leash
  • A bed and toys
  • A crate or carrier
• Unexpected costs: Accidents and illness can result in costly emergency veterinary care. Recovery tools for finding a missing dog can include posters and rewards.
• A dog with special physical or behavioral challenges may require specialized professional support to overcome any obstacles these issues present.

 

Time Considerations:

• Dogs need to be fed two to three times a day, more often in the case of puppies, and need a constant supply of fresh water.
• A responsible dog parent should spend at least one hour per day giving direct attention to his or her dog. This may include training, exercising, grooming, and playing or, with cats, it may just be lap time on the couch. Dogs will need to be taken out to potty several times a day.
• A dog with an abundance of energy needs more time to exercise and interactive toys to keep them entertained.
• Dogs with long coats may need 20 minutes a day of grooming to prevent matting.
• Dogs with certain medical conditions may need additional attention, including specifically timed injections in the case of diabetic animals.
• Remember that adopted dogs may need additional bonding and reassurance time in the early weeks.

 

Shopping Checklist:

It may be a good idea to wait until you select your new dog before you begin shopping for supplies. For example, some items, such as food and water bowls or collars and harnesses, depend upon the size of the dog you will be adopting.

Also, be sure to find out which food your dog was eating in the shelter or foster home so that you can provide the same in the beginning, again to ease the transition. After the dog has settled in, talk with your veterinarian about switching to the food of your choice.

Once you’ve selected your dog, here’s a checklist of supplies you may need:

Necessary Items for Dogs:

• • Food and water bowls
  • Food (canned and/or dry)
  • Collar
  • Four to six-foot leash
  • ID tag with your phone number
  • Hard plastic carrier or foldable metal crate
  • Dog bed
  • Doggy shampoo and conditioner
  • Nail clippers
  • Canine toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Brush or comb (depends on your dog’s coat length and type)
  • Super-absorbent paper towels
  • Sponge and scrub brush
  • Non-toxic cleanser
  • Enzymatic odor neutralizer
  • Plastic poop baggies (biodegradable ones are best) or pooper scooper
  • Absorbent house-training pads
  • Variety of toys (a ball, rope, chew toy and puzzle toy are good starts)
  • Variety of treats (such as small biscuits, larger rawhides, etc.)
  • First-aid supplies
  • Baby gate(s)

How to Avoid Kitty Boredom

There is ample evidence that cats who spend their lives entirely indoors live much longer than their outdoor-only counterparts. But keeping an indoor cat happy as well as healthy means providing more than just good nutrition and regular veterinary care – you must also enrich your kitty’s environment. Eliciting a cat’s natural behaviors with hunting and foraging games can do wonders for your companion’s well-being.

With a little creativity, you can keep your cat stimulated and interested, even in a small apartment and on a limited budget. And the good news is that enrichment research has shown that toys that are removed and then returned after several weeks regain much of their novelty; extend your enrichment budget by rotating your cat’s toys regularly. Get started with a few of these feline friendly activities, but begin slowly and be sure to get a thumbs up from kitty’s veterinarian.

Foraging Fun
Separate each day’s food rations into small batches. Place the clusters around the house and then toss a few small treats in random directions. Not only will this encourage active foraging, it’ll also keep kitty from scarfing down her food too quickly.

Pleasurable Puzzles
Toss a few treats into a square Rubbermaid® bottle and leave it on the floor with the lid off for a great beginner puzzle.

Any plastic container with a secure lid can become a hanging puzzle. Just cut two or three slots around the bottom outer edge of the container and place a few treats in the center. String a cord through the lid and hang this puzzle over a doorknob. Once your cat gets the hang of it, you can encourage exercise by raising it higher.

Scent Searching

Use old socks as washable scent baits. Just mark the sock with a dab of perfume, lotion, vanilla extract or even peanut butter, or place a pinch of any aromatic spice inside, then rub it over a slice of lunchmeat to pick up the scent. Scatter the socks throughout the house and your cat will be on the prowl for hours, delighted by the variety of scents. If you’re pressed for time, simply mark a scent trail with a bit of cheese and then hide the cheese at the end of the trail.

Bird Watching

Attach a suction-cup bird feeder outside your cat’s favorite window. Hungry birds will provide hours of entertainment. Don’t place feeders too close to the ground as it leaves birds vulnerable to enemy attacks, and be sure to keep the window closed – ‘excited cats can push right through screens.

Mouse Trap
Leave a ping-pong ball in the bathtub and watch as your cat makes it sail around the curves during her hunt for the elusive orb.

Crafty Cardboard
Use cardboard boxes as beds, dens, tunnels and mazes.

Make a “busy box” by attaching small toys to short lengths of cord and suspending them from the ceiling of a large box. Cut window flaps in the den at various heights.

Add a “Tiger Tug,” ‘ a miniature version of a game popular with both tigers and chimps. Feed both ends of a length of parachute cord into the box through small holes. Tie a toy or a large knot on each end. When the cat tugs at one end, the other end mysteriously comes to life. For multicat households, run the ends into separate boxes.

Caring for a Pregnant Cat

Before we start talking about how to care for a pregnant cat, let me say first that I am not encouraging you to breed your cat unless you are a responsible breeder with a wide base of knowledge about your chosen breed.

Breeding your cat so that your children can see the “miracle of life,” because you think your cat needs to experience having a litter of kittens, or because you just have to have one of your cat’s kittens is unacceptable.

That being said, I understand that there may be legitimate circumstances under which you need to take care of a pregnant cat. You may have adopted a pregnant stray cat, or you may be fostering a pregnant cat. If that’s the case, I salute you for taking on the responsibility.

One of the most important things your pregnant cat will need is good nutrition. She’ll need additional calories as she progresses through her pregnancy. After all, she’s eating for more than one. Choose a food suitable for reproduction. Kitten food is usually a good choice. Plan on increasing the amount of food provided as your pregnant cat nears her term.

Shortly before her due date, provide your cat with a box or similar shelter where she can give birth to and care for her kittens. Line the box with soft blankets or towels. Choose materials that are easy to launder and/or easy to clean or replace. Place the box in a quiet, familiar location, and show your cat where the box is located.

Don’t be surprised if your pregnant cat chooses a location other than the box you have prepared to actually have her kittens. If so, don’t be afraid to move the kittens to the prepared box once they’re born. It’s perfectly fine to handle the kittens; handling them will not cause your cat to abandon or injure her kittens.

When your pregnant cat’s time comes and she’s ready to give birth to her kittens, watch her closely. It’s likely she’ll be able to deliver her kittens without your help. However, there are some things that should prompt you to seek veterinary care.

• If your cat is having active contractions and has not passed a kitten within 15-20 minutes, seek veterinary care.
• If you see part of the fetus or placenta protruding from your cat’s vulva and she does not pass the kitten very quickly (within a minute or two), get your cat to her veterinarian.
• It’s not abnormal for a cat to rest between having kittens. However, if more than 2 hours passes between kittens, consult with your cat’s veterinarian.
• It’s a good idea to have your cat examined by your veterinarian when she finishes queening as well.

It’s normal for your cat to have a discharge from her vulva after the birth of her kittens. However, if the discharge becomes foul-selling, consult with your veterinarian.

Your cat will likely spend most of her time with her new kittens. For the first few weeks of their life, the kittens will depend on their mother to help regulate their body temperature and keep them warm. She will also clean the kittens regularly and will eat their excretions. This is normal. However, if your female cat is not eating her food normally or is otherwise acting abnormally, have her examined by her veterinarian. If she is vomiting or experiencing diarrhea, she may be ill. Likewise, if she is having tremors or seizures, she needs prompt medical care.

Around 4-5 weeks of age, you can start introducing your kittens to solid food. Once they are eating solid food readily, usually around 6-8 weeks, you can begin weaning them. However, socialization is extremely important to the development of your kittens, especially during the first 8-10 weeks of their lives. Kittens should remain with their litter mates, if possible, until at least 8 weeks of age.

Capybaras

Capybaras are affectionately called giant rodents and giant guinea pigs but they are not as simple to care for as their smaller cousins. Capybaras can be found in households as pets, usually in groups, but are not legal to own everywhere.

In addition to it’s common name, the capybara is also known as a capy and it’s scientific name, Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris. It also has over 190 local names depending on the language spoken in that region. It is native to Panama and Brazil, as well as other areas in Central and South America. In the wild they are found in large groups anywhere there is standing water. Riverbanks, marshes, streams and lakes are popular hot spots to find these big rodents where they keep their dry skin hydrated, munch of various water plants and grasses, and escape from predators.

Capybaras stand about two feet tall at their shoulder, are over three feet long, and also have webbed feet. They can hold their breath for about five minutes underwater, are highly intelligent, and can weigh over 170 pounds when they are full grown. In the wild these rodents live an average of nine years but captive capybaras typically live a few years longer.

Feeding Capybaras

The information that is available on feeding pet capybaras comes from the knowledge that zoos have accumulated. Capybaras only eat about three to six plant species in the wild therefore specific diets must be offered to our pets.

The most common ingredient in a pet capybara’s diet should be a high quality grass hay. Orchard hay and Timothy hay are both readily available from pet stores and large animal feed stores and should be offered in unlimited piles. This hay will not only provide the necessary nutrients and roughage a large rodent needs but will also help keep a capybara’s teeth at an appropriate length. Like other rodents, capybara teeth continuously grow throughout their lives and if they are not filed down with hay, grass, and other coarse objects they will need to be manually cared for by an exotics veterinarian.