Caring for Senior Dogs: What You Need to Know

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As your dog ages, many of his basic needs, from diet to exercise, will begin to change. This guide will help you understand what it takes to keep your senior dog happy and healthy.

Dogs are very good at hiding their health problems and as an owner, it’s your responsibility to keep an eye on your senior dog to ensure that you are adjusting his routine to match changes in his body and immune system that make him less able to cope with physical and environmental stresses. Routine exams, preventive medicine and adjustments to your dog’s lifestyle can help your pooch stay healthy even as the years creep up.

Know When Your Dog Qualifies

Different sized dogs age at varying rates, with larger dogs reaching senior status much sooner than smaller dogs.

While each dog reaches “seniorhood” at a different age, most canines become seniors between 7 and 10 years old. It’s important to know your dog’s age, so you know when he becomes a senior. Ask your vet about when your dog’s needs may begin to change.

Watch Out for Senior Health Issues

You and your vet will begin looking for specific issues that become more prevalent as a dog ages. Here’s a list of some of these issues:

  1. Arthritis
  2. Cancer (especially testicular or breast cancer)
  3. Prostate disease
  4. Cognitive disorders
  5. Intestinal problems
  6. Deafness
  7. Dental disease
  8. Diabetes mellitus
  9. Kidney disease
  10. Liver disease
  11. Vision problems

Schedule Regular Wellness Exams

Just as with people, regular health checkups become increasingly important as dogs grow older. Most experts agree that senior dogs should be seen at least once every six months. The purpose of these wellness exams is to do three things:

  1. Promote your dog’s health and longevity.
  2. Recognize and control your pup’s health risks.
  3. Detect any illnesses at their earliest stages, which may improve treatment options.

During a typical wellness exam, your vet will ask a variety of health-related questions in order to build a snapshot of your dog’s medical history. These questions often focus on your pup’s regular behaviors and whether you’ve observed any recent changes that may indicate a developing health concern.

During this checkup, vets typically check a dog’s body for tumors, signs of pain, or arthritis. In addition, your vet will assess your dog’s overall appearance and body condition, scanning his eyes, ears, nose, and mouth for irregularities as well as listening to his lungs and heart. A routine checkup may also include the following battery of diagnostic tests.

  1. Blood pressure
  2. CBC (complete blood count)
  3. CHEM screen (liver and kidney function)
  4. Urinalysis
  5. Thyroid function testing
  6. Heartworm blood test
  7. Fecal test

Most veterinarians agree that these baseline laboratory tests should be performed at least once a year in adult dogs ages two to seven years old, and more frequently in senior dogs. These baseline screenings allow your vet to monitor any developing trends in your dog’s health status as it changes from year to year. Additional testing may be necessary if your dog has any ongoing health issues, or if these routine screenings uncover any unusual results.

Consistently Monitor Your Senior Dog’s Health

Many of the illnesses that commonly plague senior dogs are obvious even to the untrained eye. So it’s important that you monitor changes in your dog’s health between regular vet visits. If any of the following signs present themselves, contact your vet immediately.

  • Incontinence (sometimes evidenced by accidents in the house)
  • Lumps
  • Constipation or diarrhea
  • Shortness of breath or other difficulty breathing
  • Coughing
  • Weakness
  • Unusual discharges
  • Changes in appetite, water intake, or urination
  • Stiffness or limping
  • Increased vocalization
  • Uncharacteristic aggression or other behavioral changes

Unexplained fluctuations in your dog’s weight may be an early sign of an underlying disease. Weight management itself can be a huge factor in your dog’s health. Obesity in dogs increases the risk of developing arthritis and a number of other diseases.

Take Action

Along with being more watchful over your senior dog’s health, it’s crucial that you keep up with routine preventive care such as parasite prevention, dental care, vaccinations, and nutritional management. As your dog’s immune system weakens, the importance of routine basic care only increases.

Create a comfortable environment for your aging best friend with easy access to food, supportive bedding, and fresh water whenever he needs it. In addition, plenty of regular attention and affection is good for morale, both yours and your senior dog’s.

Adjust Your Dog’s Nutrition

Foods designed for senior dogs often have less fat, but not lower protein levels. Ask your vet to recommend a senior dog food formula for your dog. Size typically determines the age at which you should shift your dog to a senior-friendly diet:

  • Small breeds (dogs weighing less than 20 pounds) – 7 years old
  • Medium breeds (21 to 50 pounds) – 7 years old
  • Large breeds (51 to 90 pounds) – 6 years old
  • Giant breeds (91 pounds or heavier) – 5 years old

Smaller, more frequent meals are often easier on a senior dog’s digestive system. You may also want to adjust your bathroom routine, giving your dog more frequent opportunities to go outside.

Adjust Your Home’s Comfort Level

Older dogs can’t regulate their body temperature as well as they could in their younger days. It is important to keep your dog warm, dry, and indoors when he’s not out getting his exercise. Senior canines are also more sensitive to heat and humidity, so protect them from conditions in which they may overheat.

If your dog has arthritis, he may prefer a ramp instead of walking up the stairs, extra blankets on his bed, or even a new bed designed to promote orthopedic health. If your dog suffers from vision loss, it’s a good idea to ease his anxiety by keeping floors clear of clutter. These little things add up.

Don’t Forget Dental Care

Plaque and tartar buildup can lead to a number of nasty health problems for your dog. Regular brushing with a specially formulated canine toothpaste can reduce the likelihood of any problems. Discuss with your vet whether your dog should come into the office for a thorough cleaning.

Is Your Cat Insecure? Surprising Signs Of Insecurity In Cats

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Cats thrive on feeling safe and secure. When their security disappears, a lot of behavior problems can suddenly appear, seemingly out of nowhere. You might be surprised to learn that an insecure cat won’t necessarily just always hide in a corner. In fact, some insecure cats become more aggressive to make up for their feelings of inferiority! The following are some major signs that your cat may be dealing with security issues.

Biting, Clawing, and Hissing

An aggressive cat may not be angry or mean, she may just be insecure. Some cats overcompensate for insecurity by trying to make themselves the meanest person in the room. Think of it like a bully who only hurts other people so he won’t be hurt first. A cat who’s always hissing and scratching at you might actually just be really scared.

Peeing All Over the House

Inappropriate elimination is a classic sign of insecurity in cats. Cats mark their territories with urine as a sign of ownership to other pets in the house and even strays wandering around outside. If kitty feels insecure about her home, she may start marking everything with urine. Before deciding the problem is insecurity, take her to the vet and get her checked for a urinary tract infection. Sick cats can also develop a new habit of peeing in inappropriate places.

Hiding Under Your Furniture

This one’s a little more obvious. If kitty is always hiding under your furniture, such as cowering in a small opening under your couch, you’ve got an insecure cat. Some cats will hide in couches, chairs, or even under blankets when a new person comes to visit. However, hiding isn’t always a sign of insecurity. Some cats may burrow under your favorite comforter when they just want to sleep undisturbed. Take note if kitty’s only hiding for a peaceful sleep or if she seems to be hiding all the time.

Meowing Excessively

Excess vocalization can be a sign of insecurity or boredom. Cats who are insecure may feel the constant need to get your attention by meowing. They may experience separation anxiety if you lock them out of your bedroom while you’re sleeping, which can lead to their meowing non-stop at your door. Watch your cat’s other actions and body posture to determine if she’s insecure or just bored.

Tail Down

If your cat is walking with her tail down, this can be a sure sign of insecurity. A secure, confident cat will walk with her tail held proudly in the air, sticking straight up or slightly curved at the end. An insecure cat keeps her tail low or tucked between her legs. She may also slink when she walks, keeping her body close to the ground as if she’s trying to hide.

Most Popular Names for White Cats

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There are many interesting tales about white cats in our world’s folklore: The Celtic goddess Ceridwen used white cats to carry out her orders on earth; dreaming of a white cat is good luck; white cats are a symbol of light and goodness.

Choosing the perfect white cat name is essential for the finicky feline owner!

Albino
Angel
Angelica
Avalanche
Blanca
Blizzard
Casper
Cloud
Cottonball
Diamond
Faith
Frosty
Ghost
Glitter
Ice
Icicle
Ivory
Jack Frost
Marshmallow
Merlin
Milky
Opal
Pearl
Powder
Q-tip
Snow
Snow White
Snowball
Snowbird
Snowdrift
Snowtiger
Snowy
Spirit
Sugar
Vanilla
Whitegold
Whitey
Winter

Pet Dental Care 101

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Painful toothaches and gingivitis have mercy on no one, man or beast. Here’s a guide to help you keep your pet’s teeth and gums happy and healthy.

Many pet owners tend to overlook their pet’s bad breath, dismissing it as normal. In fact, bad breath, along with sore or bleeding gums are warning signs that your dog or cat may be developing painful periodontal disease. When it comes to the importance of your pet’s dental hygiene, it goes way beyond a pretty smile. Good dental health not only helps your pet eat comfortably but contributes to overall pet health, as well. While dental care for pets often gets short shrift, establishing good dental habits early in your pet’s life will pay major dividends throughout his life.

Be Vigilant

Just like humans, pets need routine brushing to win the lifelong battle with plaque. As your pet eats, plaque builds up, eventually hardening into the calcified material we know as tartar. If plaque is you pet’s arch nemesis, tartar is her mortal enemy. Tartar not only irritates gums, but it also becomes a playground for bacteria.

If left untreated, the gums will become inflamed, pulling back from the teeth and creating pockets that, you guessed it, harbor even more harmful bacteria. As gum disease progresses, the gums may bleed, the roots of your pet’s teeth may be exposed, teeth may loosen, and your pet may actually feel pain as she eats her dinner. Over time this bacteria can find its way into your pet’s bloodstream, leading to liver and kidney problems. It’s insidious, painful, and, yes, disgusting. But it is also very preventable.

Watch for Warning Signs

It’s not hard to spot your pet’s tooth and gum problems as they develop. The warning signs are clear. The trick is learning not to dismiss them. Here are a few of the most common warning signs.

  • Bad breath
  • Sensitivity around the mouth
  • Loss of appetite
  • Yellow or brown deposits on the teeth
  • Bleeding, inflamed, and withdrawn gums
  • Loose or missing teeth
  • Pawing at the mouth or face
  • Difficulty chewing

Learn to Brush

It’s never too early to start familiarizing your pet with the old toothbrush routine. With praise and a few tasty rewards, a quick little dental scrubbing can even become a bonding experience.

1. Start by rubbing your pet’s teeth with a soft gauze pad. Wrap the gauze around your finger to secure it as you rub. This will familiarize your pet with the brushing process.

2. Work your way up to a pet toothbrush. Specially designed cat and dog toothbrushes, as well as toothpastes, are available through most pet retailers. Don’t use toothpaste designed for humans.

3. Focus on the gum line. The line where the teeth meet the gums is the most critical area to scrub.

4. Spend 30 seconds brushing each side of the mouth a few times per week.

Enlist Your Vet’s Help

Your veterinarian is there not only to help with serious dental emergencies but also to assist with routine care. Regular checkups are essential to keeping a close eye on your dog or cat’s dental health. Your vet may also recommend a prophylaxis — a cleaning procedure that requires medication and/or anesthesia. In the event that your pet is suffering from a more serious condition, your vet can recommend the proper course of treatment — a tooth extraction, for instance.

If your pet simply won’t tolerate the toothbrush, ask your vet about alternative ways to slow plaque buildup in between checkups.

Consider Switching to Dry Food

While not as effective as brushing, dry food can help keep your pet’s teeth and gums healthy. In addition, there are a number of foods, treats, and toys available that are specifically designed to promote dental health. Check for the Seal of Acceptance from the Veterinary Oral Health Council to make sure it meets high standards for effective plaque and tartar control.

How to Avoid Kitty Boredom

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There is ample evidence that cats who spend their lives entirely indoors live much longer than their outdoor-only counterparts. But keeping an indoor cat happy as well as healthy means providing more than just good nutrition and regular veterinary care – you must also enrich your kitty’s environment. Eliciting a cat’s natural behaviors with hunting and foraging games can do wonders for your companion’s well-being.

With a little creativity, you can keep your cat stimulated and interested, even in a small apartment and on a limited budget. And the good news is that enrichment research has shown that toys that are removed and then returned after several weeks regain much of their novelty; extend your enrichment budget by rotating your cat’s toys regularly. Get started with a few of these feline friendly activities, but begin slowly and be sure to get a thumbs up from kitty’s veterinarian.

Foraging Fun
Separate each day’s food rations into small batches. Place the clusters around the house and then toss a few small treats in random directions. Not only will this encourage active foraging, it’ll also keep kitty from scarfing down her food too quickly.

Pleasurable Puzzles
Toss a few treats into a square Rubbermaid® bottle and leave it on the floor with the lid off for a great beginner puzzle.

Any plastic container with a secure lid can become a hanging puzzle. Just cut two or three slots around the bottom outer edge of the container and place a few treats in the center. String a cord through the lid and hang this puzzle over a doorknob. Once your cat gets the hang of it, you can encourage exercise by raising it higher.

Scent Searching

Use old socks as washable scent baits. Just mark the sock with a dab of perfume, lotion, vanilla extract or even peanut butter, or place a pinch of any aromatic spice inside, then rub it over a slice of lunchmeat to pick up the scent. Scatter the socks throughout the house and your cat will be on the prowl for hours, delighted by the variety of scents. If you’re pressed for time, simply mark a scent trail with a bit of cheese and then hide the cheese at the end of the trail.

Bird Watching

Attach a suction-cup bird feeder outside your cat’s favorite window. Hungry birds will provide hours of entertainment. Don’t place feeders too close to the ground as it leaves birds vulnerable to enemy attacks, and be sure to keep the window closed – ‘excited cats can push right through screens.

Mouse Trap
Leave a ping-pong ball in the bathtub and watch as your cat makes it sail around the curves during her hunt for the elusive orb.

Crafty Cardboard
Use cardboard boxes as beds, dens, tunnels and mazes.

Make a “busy box” by attaching small toys to short lengths of cord and suspending them from the ceiling of a large box. Cut window flaps in the den at various heights.

Add a “Tiger Tug,” ‘ a miniature version of a game popular with both tigers and chimps. Feed both ends of a length of parachute cord into the box through small holes. Tie a toy or a large knot on each end. When the cat tugs at one end, the other end mysteriously comes to life. For multicat households, run the ends into separate boxes.

Caring for a Pregnant Cat

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Before we start talking about how to care for a pregnant cat, let me say first that I am not encouraging you to breed your cat unless you are a responsible breeder with a wide base of knowledge about your chosen breed.

Breeding your cat so that your children can see the “miracle of life,” because you think your cat needs to experience having a litter of kittens, or because you just have to have one of your cat’s kittens is unacceptable.

That being said, I understand that there may be legitimate circumstances under which you need to take care of a pregnant cat. You may have adopted a pregnant stray cat, or you may be fostering a pregnant cat. If that’s the case, I salute you for taking on the responsibility.

One of the most important things your pregnant cat will need is good nutrition. She’ll need additional calories as she progresses through her pregnancy. After all, she’s eating for more than one. Choose a food suitable for reproduction. Kitten food is usually a good choice. Plan on increasing the amount of food provided as your pregnant cat nears her term.

Shortly before her due date, provide your cat with a box or similar shelter where she can give birth to and care for her kittens. Line the box with soft blankets or towels. Choose materials that are easy to launder and/or easy to clean or replace. Place the box in a quiet, familiar location, and show your cat where the box is located.

Don’t be surprised if your pregnant cat chooses a location other than the box you have prepared to actually have her kittens. If so, don’t be afraid to move the kittens to the prepared box once they’re born. It’s perfectly fine to handle the kittens; handling them will not cause your cat to abandon or injure her kittens.

When your pregnant cat’s time comes and she’s ready to give birth to her kittens, watch her closely. It’s likely she’ll be able to deliver her kittens without your help. However, there are some things that should prompt you to seek veterinary care.

  • If your cat is having active contractions and has not passed a kitten within 15-20 minutes, seek veterinary care.
  • If you see part of the fetus or placenta protruding from your cat’s vulva and she does not pass the kitten very quickly (within a minute or two), get your cat to her veterinarian.
  • It’s not abnormal for a cat to rest between having kittens. However, if more than 2 hours passes between kittens, consult with your cat’s veterinarian.
  • It’s a good idea to have your cat examined by your veterinarian when she finishes queening as well.

It’s normal for your cat to have a discharge from her vulva after the birth of her kittens. However, if the discharge becomes foul-selling, consult with your veterinarian.

Your cat will likely spend most of her time with her new kittens. For the first few weeks of their life, the kittens will depend on their mother to help regulate their body temperature and keep them warm. She will also clean the kittens regularly and will eat their excretions. This is normal. However, if your female cat is not eating her food normally or is otherwise acting abnormally, have her examined by her veterinarian. If she is vomiting or experiencing diarrhea, she may be ill. Likewise, if she is having tremors or seizures, she needs prompt medical care.

Around 4-5 weeks of age, you can start introducing your kittens to solid food. Once they are eating solid food readily, usually around 6-8 weeks, you can begin weaning them. However, socialization is extremely important to the development of your kittens, especially during the first 8-10 weeks of their lives. Kittens should remain with their litter mates, if possible, until at least 8 weeks of age.

Capybaras

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Capybaras are affectionately called giant rodents and giant guinea pigs but they are not as simple to care for as their smaller cousins. Capybaras can be found in households as pets, usually in groups, but are not legal to own everywhere.

Capybaras

In addition to it’s common name, the capybara is also known as a capy and it’s scientific name, Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris. It also has over 190 local names depending on the language spoken in that region. It is native to Panama and Brazil, as well as other areas in Central and South America. In the wild they are found in large groups anywhere there is standing water. Riverbanks, marshes, streams and lakes are popular hot spots to find these big rodents where they keep their dry skin hydrated, munch of various water plants and grasses, and escape from predators.

Capybaras stand about two feet tall at their shoulder, are over three feet long, and also have webbed feet. They can hold their breath for about five minutes underwater, are highly intelligent, and can weigh over 170 pounds when they are full grown. In the wild these rodents live an average of nine years but captive capybaras typically live a few years longer.

Feeding Capybaras

The information that is available on feeding pet capybaras comes from the knowledge that zoos have accumulated. Capybaras only eat about three to six plant species in the wild therefore specific diets must be offered to our pets.

The most common ingredient in a pet capybara’s diet should be a high quality grass hay. Orchard hay and Timothy hay are both readily available from pet stores and large animal feed stores and should be offered in unlimited piles. This hay will not only provide the necessary nutrients and roughage a large rodent needs but will also help keep a capybara’s teeth at an appropriate length. Like other rodents, capybara teeth continuously grow throughout their lives and if they are not filed down with hay, grass, and other coarse objects they will need to be manually cared for by an exotics veterinarian.

Causes of Itching or Scratching in Rabbits

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Rabbits shouldn’t itch themselves any more than you would. If your pet rabbit seems excessively itchy or scratches a lot then they may have a problem that needs to be addressed. Various things can cause a rabbit to itch or scratch but thankfully this pruritis is treatable.

Rabbit Fur Mites

Cheyletiella parasitivorax are microscopic mites that live in the fur of rabbits. These little mites may start off in a small area on your rabbit but if left untreated they can spread all over your rabbit’s fur, into the environment in which they live, and even to other rabbits and pets. Cheyletiella are blood sucking parasites that have to bite your rabbit in order to feed. This biting is what is causing your rabbit to itch or scratch.

Fur mites are highly contagious to other rabbits. If you have other pets in your house and your rabbit is diagnosed with Cheyletiella care should be taken to not spread these parasites to other animals. Wash your hands after handling your rabbit, throw away the food and bedding in their cage, and freeze all unused food and bedding that you purchased from a pet store or online.

Mites can be brought in to your home from items such as these so freezing them before use is also a good way to prevent an infestation. Even if your rabbit never goes outside they can get fur mites.

Fur mites are also referred to as “walking dandruff” because they are often seen moving dead skin around on your rabbit creating the appearance of mobile skin cells. If your exotics vet diagnoses your rabbit with these mites they will most likely prescribe a medication to kill the mites that won’t harm your rabbit, such as Selamectin. Over the counter products are not typically safe for rabbits and you should always consult your veterinarian prior to administering any product to your rabbit.

Rabbit Lice

While not as common as some other parasites, lice do infest rabbits. Lice are species specific so humans and other pets that aren’t rabbits cannot get them. Treatment is similar to that of fur mites.

Fleas on Rabbits

Many people don’t think that rabbits can get fleas but the reality is that any pet with fur can, including our pet bunnies. Fleas, like fur mites, are blood sucking parasites that bite rabbits which in turn causes them to itch or scratch. Fleas lay about 40 eggs every day so even if you only see one or two adult fleas on your rabbit they’ve probably already laid hundreds of eggs. Fleas can also bite humans but we are not viable hosts to these pests so they cannot survive solely off of our blood.

Indoor rabbits can get fleas just like outdoor rabbits. Other pets in the household can give your rabbit fleas and we can track fleas in from the outdoors. Fleas can also find their own way into our homes just like other insects, such as ants and spiders.

Using a flea comb you can find fleas and flea dirt (their cylindrical feces that will turn red if rubbed into a wet cotton swab to identify that it is digested blood and not just environmental dirt). If you find either of these on your rabbit then you need to treat your rabbit and all other pets with fur in the household with a safe medication, just like you would do for fur mites. You will also need to treat the environment, clean, and freeze all food and bedding items that you can. Some rabbit owners will also use boric acid powder in their carpeting and various sprays and room bombs sold at pet stores. If you choose to use these products make sure your rabbit is out of the room you are treating for at least 24 hours.

Dry Skin on Rabbits

Your rabbit can develop dry skin and itch or scratch. Rooms with very low humidity, dusty environments, poor diets, and bathing your rabbit too often with inappropriate shampoos can all contribute or cause your rabbit to have dry skin. If you can determine the cause for the dry skin then you should be able to reverse it. If you need temporary relief for your rabbit’s dry skin there are rabbit-safe spray products available.

Rabbit Ear Mites

Psoroptes cuniculiis are ear mites of the rabbit and cause itching and scratching. Ear mites can be spread from rabbit to rabbit so wash your hands after handling a rabbit with itchy ears. You may notice hair loss around the ears, scabs, or especially dirty looking ears in rabbits with ear mites. These are all signs that your rabbit may have ear mites and needs to see their veterinarian. A head tilt, flopped ear, or head shaking are also signs of an ear mite infestation since both ears are not always affected.

Ear mites can easily be diagnosed and treated and prevention can be done the same way you would prevent your rabbit from getting fur mites and fleas – by freezing food and bedding that was purchased from the pet store prior to use.

Allergies in Rabbits

Just like some people, rabbits can be sensitive to certain things and even have allergies that can cause them to itch or scratch. Usually these allergies are environmental and not food based so changes can be made with bedding, cleaners, and air purifiers to make your rabbit more comfortable at home. Rabbits can also be allergic to parasites, such as fur mites and fleas, which will make an infestation of these pests even more irritating to your pet. Common environmental allergens to rabbits are laundry softeners and detergents with rabbits who have blankets. Using softeners and detergents meant for babies or sensitive skin (fragrance free varieties) are often best to use with rabbits who have allergies.

Skin Irritants to Rabbits

In addition to allergies, rabbits can also be irritated by certain items, especially if they aren’t meant for rabbits. Shampoos, conditioners, sprays, air fresheners, etc. can all be irritants to rabbits. If you use a new product, such as a shampoo, and the next day your rabbit is itching, it may be because the shampoo was too harsh for your rabbit’s skin. This is often seen with products meant for dogs that are used on rabbits.

Ringworm in Rabbits

Caused by two main types of fungus (Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis), ringworm is a fungal infection that causes hair loss, itching, and red “ringworm” lesions in rabbits. It is usually treated with topical ointments or oral medication prescribed by your exotics vet. Rabbits contract ringworm from a variety of ways including contact with another infected rabbit, brushes that were used on a rabbit with ringworm, and dirty environments. People can also contract ringworm from a rabbit.

The main cause of ringworm (as well as mites and fleas) is direct contact with another rabbit so if you decide to welcome a new rabbit into your home be sure to keep them separate from your other rabbits until you are sure they do not have an infection.

Skin Infections in Rabbits

A rabbit with urine scald, feces that has remained in prolonged contact with your rabbit’s skin, and overall unclean environments may cause your rabbit to develop a skin infection. These infections can be itchy to your rabbit and typically need prescription medications to remedy them. Anti-itch spray are available that are safe to use on rabbits but if they root of the problem is not addressed they are merely providing temporary relief.

5 Most Popular Dog Breeds in America

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The American Kennel Club has released its list of the most popular dogs in America. So what are the most popular dog breeds? Click through to see which ones made the cut!

Labrador Retriever

The trusty and loyal Labrador retriever has been the most popular dog breed in the United States for 23 years. Originally from Newfoundland, Labs were once used by fisherman to help round up stray fish and pull in nets. Later, breeders bred them to help hunters retrieve game. The Lab’s gentle, people-pleasing personality makes it excellent for therapy, search-and-rescue and families.

This sturdy breed is familiar for its use in law enforcement and the military, but they also make loyal family dogs. German shepherds were first bred in Karlsruhe, Germany, in 1899, and the AKC recognized the breed in 1908. When a German shepherd named Rin-Tin-Tin became a Hollywood star of more than 20 films, the breed catapulted to fame.

The golden retriever was first bred in Scotland for hunting. In the 1800s, the Lord Tweedmouth crossed a yellow retriever with the now-extinct Tweed Water Spaniel. He later added Irish setter and bloodhound to get the friendly, golden-hued breed we know today. The golden retriever has since evolved into an excellent pet for families with children.

Cute and curious, dog lovers know this tenacious little hunting dog for its trumpet-like bay instead of a bark. Like most hounds, beagles come in three color varieties: tricolor, red-and-white and lemon. Beginning in the 1500s, English hunters used packs of beagles to hunt smaller game like foxes and rabbits. Snoopy, Charlie Brown’s dog in the “Peanuts” comics, is perhaps the most famous beagle in pop culture.

Known for its stocky build and wide, wrinkly face, the bulldog is one of the most recognizable dog breeds. Its name refers to the breed’s original use in bull baiting, which England banned by 1835. Families appreciate bulldogs for their relaxed temperament and minimal need for grooming and exercise. The breed’s heavy build and short snout makes them prone to overheating in hot weather.

 

Guessing Game Time! What Are The Most Popular Dog and Cat Names of 2016?

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Selecting a name for your pet is a delicate process. You want something that isn’t too common. You want it to mean something, match your pet’s personality, and resound when hollered at the dog park (or at a wet spot on the carpet).

Thankfully, Healthy Paws Pet Insurance has released their annual pet name survey—and the results will either reaffirm your naming ingenuity or dash your perceived creativity.

The good news? Bella and Jasper—which skyrocketed in popularity after the release of a certain unspeakable vampire trilogy—have been knocked down a few pegs for cats. While Bella remains number one for lady dogs, the name now ranks number two for female cats (replaced by Luna, sorry Chrissy Teigan), and Jasper is close to falling off the list entirely. The bad news? Naming cats after Lion King characters will never go out of style, even though the movie was released 22 years ago.

Here are the complete lists:

Top 10 Cat Names 2016 – Female

  1. Luna
  2. Bella
  3. Lucy
  4. Chloe
  5. Lily
  6. Mia
  7. Sophie
  8. Lola
  9. Nala
  10. Daisy

Top 10 Cat Names 2016 – Male

  1. Oliver
  2. Max
  3. Milo
  4. Simba
  5. Leo
  6. Charlie
  7. Jack
  8. Loki
  9. Smokey
  10. Jasper

Top 10 Dog Names 2016 – Female

  1. Bella
  2. Lucy
  3. Luna
  4. Daisy
  5. Lola
  6. Sadie
  7. Molly
  8. Stella
  9. Chloe
  10. Maggie

Top 10 Dog Names 2016 – Male

  1. Charlie
  2. Cooper
  3. Max
  4. Oliver
  5. Buddy
  6. Rocky
  7. Teddy
  8. Milo
  9. Tucker
  10. Bentley